Customer expectations of sustainability are ahead of retailers’ evolution
Many global brands and retailers are conscious of the imperative to work towards sustainability, and pressure is being exerted by governments. Indeed, global leaders are meeting in Biarritz this weekend to agree a G7 international fashion pact to fight the climate crisis(1). Becoming more environmentally responsible and implementing sustainable sourcing and recycling practices will require significant financial investment from clothing companies. It will also take time. During the period before these reforms are implemented, retailers and brands will continue to produce fast fashion items which are not responsibly sourced or recycled at end of life.
The Guardian(1) reported that Inditex ‘announced that all of its collections would be made from 100% sustainable fabrics before 2025’, and H&M group ‘is aiming to have 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030’. Shoppers and climate activists would be justified in saying that these targets are too far in the future. According to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), ‘Limiting global warming to 1.5ºC would require rapid, far-reaching and unprecedented changes in all aspects of society.’(2)
The future of fashion may not be fashion at all. Purchasing new items of clothing in order to respond to an arbitrary set of ever-changing fashion rules, could well seem like an archaic practice in the near future. The price of clothing may increase, in order to accommodate sustainable materials, ethical sourcing, investment in recycling and in some countries extra taxes. Price increases would make buying second-hand more appealing, and encourage wearers to place a higher value on their clothing. Repairs and alterations would become the norm, as would buying made to order investment pieces.
Fashion stylist and ‘Queen of Thrift’ Bay Garnett(3) ‘pioneered the idea of "thrifting", the art of shopping in second-hand stores, as being relevant to high fashion by including items she had found in magazine shoots’(4). Personal stylist Rebecca Ffrancon frequently collaborates with ‘charity boutique’ Ada & Albert(5) on Instagram posts and events(6).
The idea of artisans creating pieces exclusively for individual wearers to treasure is also growing in popularity. Made to Order Fashion UK and Eyato London are launching the inaugural Made to Order Luxury Affair(7) on September 5th and 6th. They’re inviting individuals with a unique sense of style, to collaborate with artisans to design made to order pieces which are a true expression of the clients’ personalities. According to Atiti Izogie of Eyato London, fashion consumption ‘must be about conscious purchasing’.
Will fast fashion brands become slow fashion companies? Will the retail giants evolve quickly enough to satisfy consumers’ demands for transparency in sustainability? It remains to be seen. In the meantime, truly sustainable brands, made to order events, and the second-hand market will thrive and grow.
(1) https://www.theguardian.com/world/2019/aug/21/fashion-g7-summit-sustainability-kering-inditex-macron
(2) https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/climate-change/
(3) https://www.instagram.com/baygarnett/
(4) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bay_Garnett
(5) https://adaandalbert.co.uk/
(6) https://www.instagram.com/p/BvSSzK4l3-m/
(7) https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/made-to-order-luxury-affair-tickets-66567959559